I do my jeans waistbands a little differently. This works for both a straight and contoured WB. I will post photos for each step when I make my next jeans…I didn’t plan on doing this tutorial until I began writing my post for my Gingers. sorry 😦
- First only sew the top and one end seam using whatever seam allowance is called for in the pattern.
- Press the SA open so that when it’s turned, the seam will fall exactly on the very edge. You can also slightly favor the seam to the inside if you prefer to avoid any peek of the facing when worn.
- Fold up the outer WB the amount of your seam allowance. this is the part that will sew on to the jean.
- Serge and trim the WB facing about 1/4″ to 3/8″ beyond the folded edge of the outer WB.
- Optional, but I always do this…reinforce by fusing interfacing to both the WB and WB facing where the button and buttonholes will be. You’ll have to sort of a guess where the buttonhole will end up, so I just put in about 3 inches approximately where it will be. This will make sense in the next step ;).
- When it’s time to sew it on, start at the under-lap (sandwiching it over the jean edge) and edge stitch it on the jean while holding tension on the WB only. This allows the WB to kind of suck in the top of the jean through a full days wear. Once you reach the over-lap around the other side (where the buttonhole will be) stop about 4 inches from the end, leaving your needle down and trim the [un-sewn] end, leaving a seam allowance. Turn/fold it in around the zipper fly edge…it’s a little fiddly at first but produces a really nice professional finish. Check out some of your RTW jeans and you will see this is what they do in the garment industry. As a benefit…if you are one who does not like belt loops, then this really prevents the need to have to wear a belt to cinch in the slight gaping that is common with jeans that have been worn all day…its the nature of denim to stretch out. I personally like belt loops on my jeans…I feel naked without them.
Edge Stitch = stitching approximately a needle width to 1/8′ away from the edge.