COMPLETED: Sophie Swimsuit

The blog has been veeerrry quiet over the last year…no excuses, but the creating has been nonstop.  I figured why not begin the new year with posting about a swimsuit, its been in the teens and 20’s here in the Pacific Northwest…makes sense right? 😉

Its not really swimsuit season, but I have finished this beauty finally.  Last summer, I was on a swimsuit binge in my studio.  I made three Bombshell suits and then Sophie came out.  HeatherLou is so talented with her pattern offerings and I had to partake.

Before last summer, I had never made a swimsuit before and frankly was a little intimidated.  Not sure why, because I have made a boat load of panties and several bras.  There really is no difference other than a few of the notions are different materials like rubber elastic, for instance.  Heather has produced an online course for the intimidated among us and I thought why not!  I enrolled in Sew Your Dream Swimsuit right away and never looked back.  I don’t know about any of you, but I am sort of an online sewing class junkie.  I can’t even count how many Craftsy classes I have and with YouTube, I am always tuned into some sort of video production about sewing and clothing design.  I love the internet!


I had a lot of fun making this suit, the drafting is perfection and the sizing is done similar to CCF other patterns, however the cup sizing is unique.  Heather does a fantastic job explaining how to select you size so there really isn’t any confusion.  I read through the printed instructions and took my measurements. Then I watched the videos and measured again.  I selected the closest size according to my commonly used underwire and measurements.  I chose the halter style with the high waist bottoms using foam for the cups.  The suit went together very easily and rather quickly too.  My machine was not cooperating at all with the top stitching and I kept getting skipped stitches.  So frustrating! I had just gotten my machine serviced and I think they messed up the timing because I have NEVER had any problem with skipped stitches. and Yes, I know…use the appropriate needle, thread….yadayadayada.  I checked, and changed and adjusted and nothing helped.  I still need to get her back to the shop and have them address it.  I mean really…I sew everything on this machine that you can imagine.  I got her done and it is good enough.

if you can zoom in, you can see the skipped stitching…everywhere..booh!

Sizing:  The suit is a tad snug and not really wearable for me.  The reason it is too small, I believe, is that the fabric being swimsuit material…the Lycra is extra strong.  I think grading out a half of a size in the hips should do the trick.  The top fits okay, but I could use a teeny bit more room in the cups as it sort of cuts into the boob-age along the top…everything else is perfect.  I wish I was brave enough to model this suit, but I am pasty white this time of year, lol!  I promise to make another suit with the adjustments and get a perfect fit so I can get photos this coming Summer.

I really like how the print is placed here, but just look at those awful skipped stitches!

I am very satisfied with the pattern and instructions, especially the quality of the video instruction.  Heather is really second to none at responding to questions as well as explaining the how to’s and why’s for everything.  I had some short lived confusion about how to select my cup size and she gave me a very detailed answer, so much so that I saved it to my computer to use next time.  She has a terrific teaching ability.

The huge bonus with this swimsuit pattern, is that it doubles as a bra making exercise as well.  The top is basically a bra made out of swimsuit fabric and notions.  I highly recommend this suit to anyone who wants to make their own suit and if you are afraid of sewing with these fabrics or just want to have Heather hold your hand through the making of your suit, enroll in her companion online course…well worth the money and time (you will have it forever).

Glad to be back with my sewing community, its been way too long! Thanks for reading 🙂

btw:  all of the links in this post are NOT affiliate 🙂

COMPLETED: Morgan Boyfriend Jeans!

Closet Case Files has done it AGAIN. I love my Ginger’s, but now am loving my boyfriend jeans a.k.a. Morgan Boyfriend Jeans.  I jumped on the denim kit this time around when Heather posted.  I hesitated for, like…30seconds.  Clicked away, then right back.  I ordered even though I really don’t need all the fixin’s as my stash is pretty stocked with zippers, rivets, buttons and thread.  The kits she puts together are just fun!

I couldn’t wait, though…until the rigid denim in my kit arrives.  I had some stretch denim that I decided to use knowing full well that they are meant for a non-stretch denim.  I only pre-washed my yardage one time realizing that they probably would shrink up a tad more.  I printed the PDF (yes, I bought that during the 30-seconds of kit purchase hesitation :blush:).  My first attempt at putting it together was a disaster!  My own hurried fault.  I scrapped it and reprinted, waited until after work this time.  It taped up without flaw.  Before choosing my size, I measured a pair of boyfriend jeans I just spent a large stack of bills on….Joe Jeans.  I love them and they are so comfy!  Here are a couple of pics I had saved for outfit inspiration.

Anyway, the Morgan’s finished measurements were almost exactly the same as my Joe’s.  I picked the size 12 since I wanted a relaxed fit although not baggy.  I cut out the size 12 across the board.

Since these are my first version, meant for deciding what adjustments might be needed, I had some fun with the stitching details. First off, I used a white cotton shirting for the pockets and the waistband casing.  The only pieced I interfaced were those suggested in the pattern, the fly facing and shield…oh and the area where the button and buttonhole are in the waistband.  I used pink serger thread for the seam allowance finishing…real men wear pink, right?  Boyfriend jeans need a little pink!! 😉


I have made a button fly before, but they didn’t really turn out that great…the instructions were a little confusing. The fly works, but the buttons were a little crooked…off center.  Heather does an amazing job walking you through creating this fly.  I am loving the button fly for a couple of reasons.  1) No worries about breaking a needle when attaching the waistband. Yay!  2) It is authentic for jeans, specifically boy jeans ;).  My fly turned out very well if I do say so myself.  One thing that I always do with the fly shield is to cut one of the edges along the selvage as I really like the appearance when it is finished.  You can see part of the selvage edge along the seam when the fly is unbuttoned which is a cool design detail.


This brings me to the design details.  Since I used pink on the inside, I thought I would be selective about where and how much pink I wanted on the outside.  The other top stitching is with a dark navy  thread along the seam edge with a smoky light blue 1/4″ away from the first line…the same on the back pockets.  Back to the pink. I wanted to use an unexpected touch by stitching an “X” on the left pocket facing just to see if I liked it…and I do!  Then I used pink as the top stitching down each hip seam just beyond the pocket lining marked with a smaller “X” to mimic the pocket facing.  The last place for pink is the waistband buttonhole.  For the coin pocket, I used the selvage along the top edge folding it forward then back to ensure the top edge wasn’t too thin.  I love all the details I did on these jeans and will likely use them on my next pair(s) ;).

As for the fit…pretty spot-on out of the shoot.  The pics above are after a full day of wearing in my car…on the road.  I am a home health nurse so I spend a lot of time sitting in my car; especially because I serve a primarily rural community. The denim I used stretches but I find that it didn’t overstretch.  They are still comfy without being baggy. Heather recommends going down a size or two (I think…) if using a stretch although she is very clear that this jean is NOT drafted for stretch fabric.  I went in knowing that it may not work well.  I am happy enough and will likely NOT make any changes for my first rigid pair.  That just sounds super uncomfortable, right? lolz

As a side note, I had been thinking about adding the traditional leather patch on the waistband of my future jeans makes, and then Heather added this detail on the Morgan Boyfriends.  It was fun to add and I think it makes them even more RTW looking.  My Brother machine has handled all sorts of fabrics no matter the thickness or fiber type, but ever since it went to get routinely serviced…it keeps skipping stitches even over thin areas. Ugh!  I have tried EVERYTHING.  What I ended up doing which was probably not good for her was to push down on the needle bar so the needle and hook were sure to meet.  Yikes!  Anyone have a solution?  I probably will need to take her back to the shop :(.

You might be wondering…What is that top?  Well stay tuned…I will blog about it shortly ;).

Tell me about your jeans dreams…have you made them?  What keeps you from stitching up your own jeans…custom style?

Until then,

Sew a button on your underware!