The Perfect EveryDay Bra! Harriet by ClothHabit

I’m on a roll with filling my undy drawer with freshness!  I guess one could say it is part of preparing for Spring :). As soon as the email announcing her new Bra pattern, Harriet, I hopped on over to Cloth Habit and made the purchase.  Something about this one had me hooked.  harriet-bra-pattern-cover_grande

The Harriet’s classic style features a lovely balconette neckline, supportive scoop-back straps, and a 3-piece cup seam design that lifts and centers.

Views A and B feature supportive, unlined cup fabrics and an optional lace upper cup. View C has a partially lined cup and fully lined cradle which gives you opportunities to play with lace on the front of the bra. from ClothHabit.com

I haven’t yet had terrific success with the other underwire bras I have made. That is not to say that they didn’t fit, they just weren’t exactly the right feel.  The girls didn’t stay happy for more than a few hours.  I set out to select my size using the instructions.  She explained that the sizing is not the same as with Watson, which makes sense I suppose considering this is an underwire and the Watson is a soft bra.  I came up as a 30DD!  Um yah…no way. So instead of making a tester bra with this size, I thought I would pin-fit it so to speak.  What I found is that the cup was way too big…projection-wise. Here is a picture showing what I mean.

harrietpatternpinned
3 different cup sizes…using sister sizes 30DD and 34C Plus 34B as my normal size
30DD projection...smooshed in after placing over my boob
30DD projection…smooshed in after placing over my boob

The 34C seemed to be the closest to a good fit, so I set out to make it up using a scrap of some duoplex. I didn’t have any black plush picot elastic, so I decided to use FOE to finish the neckline.  I removed the seam allowance in order to maintain the correct size.  The fit was darn near perfect except for a tiny amount of excess fabric in the upper cup at the apex. I really like the overall look of this bra and for left over materials/notions…I do like the finished bra!

sorry I am not wearing it...too sheer to post in public
sorry I am not wearing it…too sheer to post in public 🙂

harriet1stedback

I removed a total of 3/8″ from the apex; taking 1/8″ from the upper cup and 1/4″ from the lower cup pieces.  The other adjustment I felt it needed was to add 1/8″ the to bridge width.  As for design changes, I did not want to use picot elastic at the neckline, so I decided to self line the upper cup by placing the seam-line on the fold.  I then attached clear elastic to the inner layer to stabilize the neckline to be invisible.  It worked like a charm! harrietinsides harrietfront harrietbackclosed harriet2nded

I found the instructions to be written and illustrated very well, although I kind of went my own way.  I have no issue with the order of construction used, but just prefer my own quirky order of things. 😉  One thing I want to point others to, is the underwire.  I did not have the size wire suggested, so went through those I had and low and behold…the Plunge wire size 36 was a perfect fit for this bra.  You can get them at Emerald Studio on Etsy.  Unfortunately, I live in the US and the shop is in Canada, so I set out to find an equivalent if not the same.  I believe I found the same wire sold by ArteCrafts; she has a PDF with actual size wires of all types she sells.  I ordered them and should get them soon and am hopeful!

I just love this bra, it is so comfortable, easy to make and super versatile. I have a kit sitting on my cutting table ready to cut out…it will be the lace version. I am so excited!  Anyone else out there sewing up this beauty?

 

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4 thoughts on “The Perfect EveryDay Bra! Harriet by ClothHabit

  1. thanks so much for sharing this – I really want to try this pattern but had exactly the same sizing issues – I’ll try your hacks straight away!

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    1. Terrific! My breasts have much more density low and to the side; I believe that is why I usually get the excess fabric at and around the apex. Not sure, but I learn with each make. Good luck in your endeavor and have fun!

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