This week has been full of lingerie making. I know bras are all I have been sharing lately, but it’s just s fun 😍. I swear, every time I go to cleanup my studio, I see some lace scraps and get completely inspired. And it helps that we’ve just had Valentine’s Day…what better way to celebrate than with some new handmade pretty things 😊.
I’ll share the most recent edition, a bra with panties to match. This lace is spectacular but I can’t recall where I bought it, although it was either ArteCraftShop or TailorMade.
The next is a satin and lace beauty. The lace was left over from the halter bra I made that can be seen here and the satin was from SewSassy. I even had enough lace for 2 different panty styles. The first is with my fave Watson Bikini and the other are Esme by EvieLaLuve.
Harriet with Watson or Esme
This bra is the most comfy and well-fitting underwire bra I’ve ever had.
For a long time, I have wanted to make a corset. I bought the boning and tips 2 years or more ago. I do this with many things needed for specialty type projects. They then sit in their places in my sewing studio awaiting their turn in my work. I was not sure why I wanted to make a corset…would I actually wear it? I think corsets can be very beautiful and extremely flattering on any woman. They just seemed really complicated…the stitching…the fit…the boning. Continue reading →
This weekend I’ve been on a lingerie sewing binge. Cloth Habit released 1003 Harriet bra and I was smitten. I’ve made so many Watsons, so I was sure to love the new underwire and you can see it here.. Madalynne x Simplicity 8228 has been in my lingerie notions drawer for quite a long time because I bought the PDF and had been dreading putting it together. After Harriet was finished and fitting well, I set out and suffered through cutting and taping about a third of the 8228 PDF before realizing each size was separate. Whew!, I quickly thumbed thru and found my size and had the pieces cut out. Continue reading →
I’m on a roll with filling my undy drawer with freshness! I guess one could say it is part of preparing for Spring :). As soon as the email announcing her new Bra pattern, Harriet, I hopped on over to Cloth Habit and made the purchase. Something about this one had me hooked.
The Harriet’s classic style features a lovely balconette neckline, supportive scoop-back straps, and a 3-piece cup seam design that lifts and centers.
Views A and B feature supportive, unlined cup fabrics and an optional lace upper cup. View C has a partially lined cup and fully lined cradle which gives you opportunities to play with lace on the front of the bra. from ClothHabit.com
I haven’t yet had terrific success with the other underwire bras I have made. That is not to say that they didn’t fit, they just weren’t exactly the right feel. The girls didn’t stay happy for more than a few hours. I set out to select my size using the instructions. She explained that the sizing is not the same as with Watson, which makes sense I suppose considering this is an underwire and the Watson is a soft bra. I came up as a 30DD! Um yah…no way. So instead of making a tester bra with this size, I thought I would pin-fit it so to speak. What I found is that the cup was way too big…projection-wise. Here is a picture showing what I mean.
The 34C seemed to be the closest to a good fit, so I set out to make it up using a scrap of some duoplex. I didn’t have any black plush picot elastic, so I decided to use FOE to finish the neckline. I removed the seam allowance in order to maintain the correct size. The fit was darn near perfect except for a tiny amount of excess fabric in the upper cup at the apex. I really like the overall look of this bra and for left over materials/notions…I do like the finished bra!
I removed a total of 3/8″ from the apex; taking 1/8″ from the upper cup and 1/4″ from the lower cup pieces. The other adjustment I felt it needed was to add 1/8″ the to bridge width. As for design changes, I did not want to use picot elastic at the neckline, so I decided to self line the upper cup by placing the seam-line on the fold. I then attached clear elastic to the inner layer to stabilize the neckline to be invisible. It worked like a charm!
I found the instructions to be written and illustrated very well, although I kind of went my own way. I have no issue with the order of construction used, but just prefer my own quirky order of things. 😉 One thing I want to point others to, is the underwire. I did not have the size wire suggested, so went through those I had and low and behold…the Plunge wire size 36 was a perfect fit for this bra. You can get them at Emerald Studio on Etsy. Unfortunately, I live in the US and the shop is in Canada, so I set out to find an equivalent if not the same. I believe I found the same wire sold by ArteCrafts; she has a PDF with actual size wires of all types she sells. I ordered them and should get them soon and am hopeful!
I just love this bra, it is so comfortable, easy to make and super versatile. I have a kit sitting on my cutting table ready to cut out…it will be the lace version. I am so excited! Anyone else out there sewing up this beauty?
Addicted to sewing since the 70’s – Sewing Blogger since 2013 – Enjoying a #RTWFAST and Creator of #DESIGNINDECEMBER since 2015 – Designing Handbags and Accessories and PDF Sewing Patterns for bags and accessories at #LANYOSHANDMADE since 2018 – Lover of vegan, sustainable, repurposed and up-cycled projects – I want to try everything, learn everything and talk about it with you!