‘Issy’ Rides Again! [PASS THE PATTERN]

Back in March, on my birthday to be precise…I saw a cool post sharing this Issy experience and inviting readers to comment as an entry into this contest of sorts.  So I though what the heck!  And I won!!!  To be cliché, “I never win!”.

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www.sewniptuck.com

Some of you may be asking…What is this “Pass the Pattern” thing?  To read the whole story, check out Lesley’s post at  sewniptuck as well as Marijana’s post at Sew2Pro.

On Friday, the postman delivered my pattern flown all the way from Australia by Lesley of sewniptuck.  IMG_1238 (Edited)Dang, snail mail for sure! it has been almost 3 weeks that I have been waiting.  She included a lovely letter…hand-written style, and I immediately thought about how much of a schmuck I am.  Turns out that I was so slammed busy at work that I scribbled a note while sitting in my car outside the post office before mailing her pattern from my stash…super embarrassed! She even included fabric swatches from 2 Issy’s she had sewn up…how cool was that?

I was lamenting my never ending fabric stash…I have way too much, BUUUUT, nothing really to use for dear sweet Issy.  I did have some lovely jersey, I think it is viscose but there was no info on the label.  I bought it on huge mark-down from FabricMart.com for $3/yard. This was my choice for my muslin in hopes it would be wearable as I just love the drapey, soft and sumptuous feel of the fabric on my bod.

I took to ironing the folded up pattern so that I could trace it off as I knew I would need to do some adjusting before slicing into my fabric.  Issy comes in a size 12 and I normally wear a size 10 from StyleArc.  I figured most of the sizing could be taken by sewing with 3/8″ seam allowance instead of the 1/4″ allowed in the pattern.  I did a sway back adjustment of 5/8″ as I always need this.  The method I use is by slashing from center back — just above the waistline — to but not through the side seam-line.  Then I overlap this horizontal dart the needed 5/8″.  This leaves the CB wonky and with this pattern piece being a full back pattern piece…created a bit of a head scratcher.

Steps taken:

  1. folded the back in half and marked a cut line just above the waist.
  2. marked 5/8″ down
  3. tucked one of the edges inside the other and taped it to secure.
  4. opened up the pattern…and discovered it would not lay flat!
  5. a lot of head scratching ensued….alot!
  6. then it occurred to me…I will just make it lay flat by using my rotary cutter up and down the CB fold until it behaved!
  7. Voila~!!!! What happened is that it made the pattern wider.
  8. then I divided the amount of the diamond-shaped opening (fish-eye dart) and shaved off each side seam tapering to the armscyes and bottom hems.

This worked beautifully!  I think I will add this to a mini-tute here on my blog…later. 🙂

As many may know from the many pattern reviews out there…the front pattern piece is really strange-looking.  I just trusted that it would work out since I have had great success with other Style Arc patterns.  I went ahead and cut out the fabric and started pin-basting where the instructions alluded to it needing to be folded.  The instructions are pathetically done, IMHO!  They tried, but not hard enough.  Once it was folded and pinned I was able to see, genius things.  It is essentially a shawl collar and a modified cowl neck top!  That’s all!!! My confidence at getting it to look like the drawn pattern photo began to set in.  Here she is…Muslin Form.

IssyFront
Not bad for a first try! I think it looks almost exactly like the SA drawing!
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photo credit: http://www.stylearc.com.au

IssyMuslin

Perfecting the fit for me:

Now that I have been wearing it around the house for a bit…I have decided she needs a tiny bit of tweaking.  The shoulders are about 1 inch too wide, so I moved each armscye in towawrd the neck by 1/2″ on both the front and the back.  Now…keep in mind that if you, too, need to narrow or widen the shoulders….you will need to do it on the “cowl” piece that folds down as well.  You probably are scratching your heads by now thinking wtf is she talking about…trust me you will know when you dive in to this pattern.  However, if you already have it and have made it up, you will be “like, ooooh yeah!” …or rolling you eyes at me. lol

I want to make a sleeveless version next since Summer is teasing us around here in the Pacific Northwest, although today is cold and wet…you may see a fire burning in my fireplace in my pictures.  I will raise the armscye by about 3/8″ so that they suck up into my pit a bit more.  The sleeves aren’t too bad in its current state, but when without sleeves, I like a tidy appearance.

In exchange for the Issy and being a PTP playa, I sent Lesley the Style Arc Poppy Zip Top.  I had this in my stash for a long time and have never made it up…just can’t seem to find an inspiration on this one.  I have a second copy so depending on what Lesley does with it…I may just finally sew it up!  Can’t wait to see what she comes up with :).

Off to the fabric store for more fabric, so I can share my final version…stay tuned for “Issy: Take Two!”.  Once I finish, you too, can join in on the fun!

…until next time, let me know what you think of this Pass-the-Pattern concept by leaving me a comment.

 

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