More Pattern Drafting

Once I got started in my new adventure…the Pattern Workshop course I blogged briefly about here, I discovered that I’d probably be more successful learning the basics of drafting the traditional way.  So I pulled up the Craftsy class, Pattern Making Basics: The Bodice Sloper that I’ve had for a little while taught by Suzy Furer.  This woman is by far the best instructor of any Craftsy class that I’ve taken.  And let’s just say I have taken upwards of 25 classes in 3 years. [blush].

I have watched the entire course at least 3 times before I pulled all my tools out on the table.  I love all the math, measuring and nerdy thinking involved in drafting.  It brought me back to my Junior Highschool days when I took an architectural drafting class.  Pattern drafting is no different, you get to use a ruler, paper, pencil and eraser…..not to mention a lot of brain-work too.

But first I needed my husband to take all the necessary measurements….he is such a good helper!  He watched the section on how to mark and measure each and did so quite accurately. I swear every day…he is the BEST husband any woman could have…and he’s all mine ;).  Finally the fun began, MATH!  There is a nicely organized chart for the measurements and calculations in order to begin putting meaningful lines on paper.  It took me about 1 and 1/2 hours to get through the front moulage.  A moulage is actually a body blueprint and is supposed to fit like a second skin.  Here she is, almost in her glory…the armhole and neckline still needs to be developed. DSCN0242

The back should be a little quicker since there isn’t a shoulder or side (bust) dart.

Just a little tweaking of the armhole, then onto tracing!
Just a little tweaking of the armhole, then onto tracing!
If you look at the outermost tracing, the armhole is really shallow and overall just wonky.  Others in the class had similar issues.  For some reason that I don’t understand is that I needed to remove 3/4″ from the cross back guideline ( from armpit to armpit). But heck…it worked!  Now the moulage can be traced to preserve all this lovely work.  Once traced, it will be cut apart to create pattern pieces for my cloth.

Look closely...aren't they pretty?
Look closely…aren’t they pretty?

Ready to cut out of my muslin...but remember to add seam allowance :)
Ready to cut out of my muslin…but remember to add seam allowance 🙂
To be continued…

Dun dun dun! Not too shabby for my very first moulage if I do say so myself :).

   
    
 
Thanks for joining in my latest venture!

Disclaimer: none of the links in this post are affiliate nor do I get anything for linking. I simply want to share in case it may help a future sewing friend!

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2 thoughts on “More Pattern Drafting

  1. Great effort there Genevieve! Drafting a bodice block is an arduous task, and then fitting starts lol 🙂 Since you asked my opinion on the fit, here it is. Generally it is very, very good, congratulations! However, you will definitely need a shoulder dart. That little wonkiness at the back neckline is where it is missing. You have some roundness at your shoulder blades, so there is no way you can get a good fit at the back without that dart. Next, the dart distribution below your waist is a bit off – there is not enough room for the tummy and the side seams are puffing out, meaning you’ve taken too much in there. It is best to draft a block without waist darts and then pin them in where needed. The shoulder could be a tad longer in my opinion, but the bust is fitted very well. Great job!

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    1. Wow! Thank you Lena 🙂 This is actually my body blueprint if you will before getting to my block, so the darts have been manipulated out of their original positions. Perhaps some of the issue in the back may have been because I was using my cell phone as a remote for my camera and I was looking down in some of my pics. However…I will be looking more closely at all of my wrinkles and definitely considering, very carefully your suggestions. I love the math and drawing of lines and all that geeky stuff!

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