Its high time I post a review of these FABULOUS jeans. I have made four pair since I jumped on the Closet Case Files Ginger Jeans bandwagon. Heather Lou offers both print and PDF patterns. These are the absolute best fitting RTW-esque jeans I’ve found. Other patterns I have used are the Jalie 2908, Named Jamie, Silhouette 3300 and Angela Wolf Angel Bootcut AW4200. All were okay, but required too many tweaks. The other jean-like pattern I’ve made up are the Jalie Eleonore pull-on jeans…review of these is to follow.
Pattern Description: With a modern and flattering cut, Ginger Jeans are the daily staple you’ll reach for again and again. View A features a comfortable low rise with narrow stovepipe legs. View B is sexy and high-waist-ed with skinny legs and a tummy-slimming pocket stay. Engineered to be as flattering as possible, Ginger Jeans feature subtly shaped back pockets to highlight the curve of the bum, slimming side seams and a higher back rise to prevent peekabooty. Designed for stretch denim, Ginger Jeans will hug you in all the right places.
Based on the finished garment measurements, I used a size 12 and made view A in each case. I am not a fan of the high waist-ed look and likely will never make version B. IMO my 5’3″ height is too squatty for a high waist-ed pant.
The instructions are very well written and illustrated, but I only used them on my very first pair to honor Heather Lou and her detailed effort to write them. Since I’ve made several pairs of jeans, I don’t really need instructions (except for the zipper installation…see below for the rave about it). There is also a sew-a-long at Closet Case Files, but with her detailed and pictorial instructions, you don’t really need it.
What I do is make up all the small bits first, like the front and back pockets, the top seam & one end of the waistband, and the zipper shield. This way its smooth sailing through the make. For the front pockets, I always do a french seam as I really think this adds to the RTW finish.
I swayed from the instruction for attaching the waistband, not that Heather Lou’s method is wrong or hard, I just prefer to do it differently. I ended up removing a total of 6 and 1/2″! See my [MINI TUTORIAL] for a super professional waistband method.
The most valuable thing in this pattern is the zipper installation. I know this technique is all over the web, by many other sewists, but for some reason it really clicked with me on this make. The zipper fly is perfect and professional every time!
Other likes are the pocket bag and of course the amazing fit right out of the envelope/PDF. Also, the rear pocket shaping is unique and it is growing on me 🙂
For my fabric and notions, I used 1 and 1/2 of 12oz. Cone Mills Stretch Denim in Black from Threadbare Fabrics. It is quite stiff and I ran out of Coke to wash it in which softens the fibers. When I remember to pick it up at the grocery store, I will wash them 3 more times in Coke only to get a softer more worn in look. Note: this was the first time I purchased from this seller and I have to say that it was the FIRST time I received EXACTLY the 1.5 yards I ordered. Usually fabric merchants will cut at least 1″ longer but usually more to account for shrinkage. I don’t think I will purchase from here again unless I can’t find what I want elsewhere. I was pretty disappointed, because they have some nice quality denim. Boohoo! I barely had enough for this make.
The WB facing and pockets are done with a quilting cotton I’ve had stashed for a loooong time, its by Timeless Treasures….a Paris print. I should have interfaced the WB facing as the fabric is a bit thin…but it still worked out fine.
I have used a non stretch denim in 8oz and it worked well. *see below in Fit changes.
<b>Pattern alterations or any design changes you made:</b>
- Added a 3/8″ dart to the back yoke pattern piece to eliminate the gapping in the back waist line.
- Added 2-1/4″ darts in the waistband to curve it a bit more.
- Removed 3/4″ total at the side seam at the waist tapering down the hip line about 4 inches.
- This version, tapered from the knee down to the hem a total of 1 and 1/4″ for a skinnier leg.
- *For my non-stretch denim version, I needed to add about 3/8″ seam allowance to the hip and thigh area as well as the waistline.
- Added an exposed zipper to each back pocket and sewed the entire pocket closed for access only through the zipper.
- Placed each pocket with the curved side toward the hip. This was only because when I had sewn in the zipper on the first pocket, the zipper pull was not where I wanted it. I wanted them when closed to be at the hip line not at the CB. I quite like them this way as I think for my booty shape…it works. Ha!
- I guess the above mentioned leg taper for a skinnier leg should be here, but I’m leaving it in the fit changes because I can 😉
I most definitely will sew these again…over and over and over! I love jeans. I think everyone should try this pattern, if they have had less than likable results with other jeans patterns. Okay…so here are a few pictures and please forgive the terrible quality. I am waiting for my new camera 😉 …shhhhh don’t tell my husband.
For a woman who wears jeans 85% of the time, this pattern is worthy of the TNT title. There are so many ways to customize the design for classic to highly emotional styling depending on what you want on your bottom half. I will forever be grateful to Heather Lou for creating this outstanding pattern.
Disclaimer: none of the links in this post are affiliate nor do I get anything for linking. I simply want to share in case it may help a future sewing friend!