COMPLETED: Cape Super Express #224

ISS Cape
ISS Cape

Besides the awkward name of this pattern, it is on trend right now and I liked this as soon as I saw it. I pre-ordered it from Islander Sewing Systems when I got the email from Janet Pray. The hefty price tag made me pause a day or two, but I kept thinking about it and went ahead because there was a discount for the pre-order.  I like her method of factory techniques so I was sure to be happy.

I’ve never owned a cape before and with the rapidly decreasing temperatures, I began searching for the perfect fabric and found this AWESOME Wool/Poly blend at Fabric Mart (sold out, wah). It is a heavy weight Boucle suiting and was $5/yard; can’t beat that!  I had some really nice silk lining I’d purchased 2 1/2 years ago from the Vogue Fabrics booth at the sewing expo in Puyallup, WA. I think I paid $6/yard, but since it was fairly old stash, I considered it FREE.  But seriously it cost me $27 in fabric, $20 for the pattern and $5 for the buttons for a total of $52.  I’m not certain, but if I bought it RTW, I might have paid over $200 bucks!

The pattern boasts garment industry techniques, thus the “Express” as well as no fitting. It wasn’t what I’d call express, given that you need to pay super close attention to what seam allowance is to be sewn. It calls for 1/4″, 3/8″, and 5/8″ depending on where it is. The reason for this is to eliminate trimming your seam allowances after they are sewn. I made myself a little cheat sheet for my sewing machine settings, see…

SA cheat sheet
SA cheat sheet

In the large scheme of things, this is true.  I also wanted to make sure I did my absolute best, so I took my time….unpicking stitching is Boucle is a real be-otch.

The instructions wer pretty good as were the illustrations which are nicely presented in a booklet.  With most of my sewing, I chunk things…sort of like an assembly line. I find that doing my sewing in chunks makes it seem faster because I can just grab and sew.  After cutting out all the pieces, they get sorted; main body, collar & pocket pieces, etc. for this cape, the piles really were minimal. I cut the interfacing pieces first so they would be with each pattern piece.

Order of production:

  1. I fused everything.
  2. Sewed little bits…pocket to facings & collar.
  3. Staystiched the neck and waistlines and any part that might stretch out of shape in handling.
  4. Sewed the darts of the lining and main pieces.
  5. Sewed the fronts.
  6. Pocket openings and attached pockets.
  7. Sewed the fronts to the backs.
  8. The rest included attaching the lining unit to the main unit and finishing deets.

The only difficulty I had were with the buttonholes.  Damn if my machine did not want to cooperate going over the bumps….it just wouldn’t do it. I thought something was wrong so I pulled out 2 other machines and the same thing happened!  If anyone knows how to remedy that….PLEASE leave a comment. What I ended up having to do was to make the bottom 4 vertical, thankfully the top (collar) buttonhole worked horizontally. I don’t think it looks bad though…unless you were a picky pickster traditionalist designer, which I’m definitely NOT.  Overall this was an easy make and I am very happy with my new cape!  Enough of this talk, on to the pictures…

I love these buttons!
I love these buttons!

image image


Thanks for reading, lemme know what you think by leaving a comment.

Disclaimer: none of the links in this post are affiliate nor do I get anything for linking. I simply want to share in case it may help a future sewing friend!

5 thoughts on “COMPLETED: Cape Super Express #224

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