COMPLETED: Sophie Swimsuit


The blog has been veeerrry quiet over the last year…no excuses, but the creating has been nonstop.  I figured why not begin the new year with posting about a swimsuit, its been in the teens and 20’s here in the Pacific Northwest…makes sense right? 😉

Its not really swimsuit season, but I have finished this beauty finally.  Last summer, I was on a swimsuit binge in my studio.  I made three Bombshell suits and then Sophie came out.  HeatherLou is so talented with her pattern offerings and I had to partake.

Before last summer, I had never made a swimsuit before and frankly was a little intimidated.  Not sure why, because I have made a boat load of panties and several bras.  There really is no difference other than a few of the notions are different materials like rubber elastic, for instance.  Heather has produced an online course for the intimidated among us and I thought why not!  I enrolled in Sew Your Dream Swimsuit right away and never looked back.  I don’t know about any of you, but I am sort of an online sewing class junkie.  I can’t even count how many Craftsy classes I have and with YouTube, I am always tuned into some sort of video production about sewing and clothing design.  I love the internet!


I had a lot of fun making this suit, the drafting is perfection and the sizing is done similar to CCF other patterns, however the cup sizing is unique.  Heather does a fantastic job explaining how to select you size so there really isn’t any confusion.  I read through the printed instructions and took my measurements. Then I watched the videos and measured again.  I selected the closest size according to my commonly used underwire and measurements.  I chose the halter style with the high waist bottoms using foam for the cups.  The suit went together very easily and rather quickly too.  My machine was not cooperating at all with the top stitching and I kept getting skipped stitches.  So frustrating! I had just gotten my machine serviced and I think they messed up the timing because I have NEVER had any problem with skipped stitches. and Yes, I know…use the appropriate needle, thread….yadayadayada.  I checked, and changed and adjusted and nothing helped.  I still need to get her back to the shop and have them address it.  I mean really…I sew everything on this machine that you can imagine.  I got her done and it is good enough.

if you can zoom in, you can see the skipped stitching…everywhere..booh!

Sizing:  The suit is a tad snug and not really wearable for me.  The reason it is too small, I believe, is that the fabric being swimsuit material…the Lycra is extra strong.  I think grading out a half of a size in the hips should do the trick.  The top fits okay, but I could use a teeny bit more room in the cups as it sort of cuts into the boob-age along the top…everything else is perfect.  I wish I was brave enough to model this suit, but I am pasty white this time of year, lol!  I promise to make another suit with the adjustments and get a perfect fit so I can get photos this coming Summer.

I really like how the print is placed here, but just look at those awful skipped stitches!

I am very satisfied with the pattern and instructions, especially the quality of the video instruction.  Heather is really second to none at responding to questions as well as explaining the how to’s and why’s for everything.  I had some short lived confusion about how to select my cup size and she gave me a very detailed answer, so much so that I saved it to my computer to use next time.  She has a terrific teaching ability.

The huge bonus with this swimsuit pattern, is that it doubles as a bra making exercise as well.  The top is basically a bra made out of swimsuit fabric and notions.  I highly recommend this suit to anyone who wants to make their own suit and if you are afraid of sewing with these fabrics or just want to have Heather hold your hand through the making of your suit, enroll in her companion online course…well worth the money and time (you will have it forever).

Glad to be back with my sewing community, its been way too long! Thanks for reading 🙂

btw:  all of the links in this post are NOT affiliate 🙂

COMPLETED: my [toasty]Toaster Sweater!


I am back!  I have taken a very long break from blogging, gosh time flies.  I have been sewing like a fiend…as usual, but not taking any pictures.  As we all know, lurking is half the fun of following blogs, the other half is learning and inspiration. So here is the first of a few  posts I have planned.

When I first spied the Toaster Sweater by Sew House 7, I loved it….the simplicity of it needed to be among my Fall 2016 wardrobe.  Print

I considered using one of my TNT raglan shirt patterns to just copy it, I know that sounds horrible…forgive me.  But there was something about the proportions and the pattern photos that drew me in.  I succumbed.  Another pattern in my overflowing pattern stash.  Speaking of stash…I have had a chunky sweater knit…100% wool that would be a perfect match.  I bought it to make a pullover sweater for Mr. SABOYU 2 years ago, obviously never happened.  It is quite rough in texture, scratchy you know?! He would never have worn it so there on the top shelf it sat.

You may ask, if he wouldn’t wear it because of the scratchiness, the why would I?  Last weekend I made a gorgeous Archer with a Liberty of London Lawn liberty-tigerthat I wanted to wear under a sweater.  No sweater in my wardrobe necessitated a make et Voila!  The Toaster Sweater pattern was released + perfect color sweater knit stashed = coordinated look!



Pattern Review: Toaster Sweater #1

Description:  “This is a closer fitting, semi-cropped sweatshirt/sweater. It works best when sewn in thick, stiff knits with some body to keep the neck standing upright. It features raglan sleeves, a wide waistband, a loose turtleneck, long cuffs and falls between the high and low hip. It’s great in a standard sweatshirt fleece (with stretch) however, it’s also extremely handsome in a sweater knit to dress it up a bit.  This is a beginner level pattern.” from Sew House 7.

Sizing:  XS – XXL

The instructions are well written although because it is such a simple design, I did not need them at all.  A beginner maker would have no problem being successful.  The only advice for a beginner would be to follow the fabric recommendation of a stable thick-ish knit in order to achieve the look of the funnel neck.  If a drapier or lighter weight knit is used, the neck will fold and not stand at attention.  What drew me to this design was the neckline.  The silhouette is slightly roomy so you get the comfort level of a sweatshirt but with sophistication.  I love that there is no ease per se in the hemband which sits at the high hip.  I can see this top as weekend wear in sweatshirt fleece as well as an upscale sweater knit…cashmere perhaps??! MMM the possibilities.

I highly recommend this pattern. It is an extremely quick make at literally 45minutes from cutting to final press. Go forth makers!  and pick up the Toaster Sweater #1 or #2. (I have no affiliation with this designer)


I haven’t worn it yet…probably tomorrow, the weather is getting colder but not quite wintery so I won’t need a coat.  I have not even tried it on…admittedly I am afraid it will be too scratchy.

Do you like to wear wool or do you run from it? LOL

Thanks or checking out my come-back post!

xo and God Bless,


A New Sewing Studio!

I LOOOOVE my studio!

One week ago today I was finishing my coffee and new that I needed to do a thorough cleanup of my studio and NOT looking forward to it. It was as if a hurricane had run through there! I’m not kidding thread and fabric bits everywhere and I mean EVERYWHERE. I wish I had taken a picture of it to show you. Some of you may be able to relate, sometimes when the creative juices are flowing you just can’t stop to cleanup.


My room used to be my son’s and I took it over when he moved out. The carpeting in there was the same as when we bought the house and probably the original from when the previous owners added on to the house. So we’re talking probably at least 20 years old….just gross!  Carpeting in a sewing space is not at all practical, everything sticks to it and the vacuum takes a huge beating having all that thread tangling around the brush roller. I’ve wanted to replace the floor for a long time, but we had other things more priority than my fun space.

Saturday, June 10, 2016 at approximately 10 am, I’d had it. Here is how it went:

Me: Honey (to my husband), What would you say if I told you I wanted to move everything out of my sewing room, rip out the carpet, go buy some laminate flooring and install it.

Husband: I’d say, how can I help?

Me: Really? Great, I’m in the shower right now!

We discussed the plan and decided that it was time to sort through my fabric and create a keep box and a get rid of box. I wanted to clean out all my patterns too, but will do that another day…it’s a huge undertaking.

I won’t bore you with the rest, but am going to share my work in progress pictures and the final reveal, let’s face it we all love to lurk 😉

Flooring: Harmonics, Mill Creek Maple $26/box…we used 8 boxes

Thanks so much for sharing in my joy!!

x G

COMPLETED: Tommy’s Cargo Shorts SABOYO-style!


It was about time for some unselfish sewing! I was trying to get these shorts done for my wonderful husband to wear on Fathers Day, but I had to redraft the cargo details based on some UnionBay shorts he really likes.


I’ve patronized Silhouette Patterns/Peggy Sagers for a number of years. Recently, I’ve feared away simply because I’ve gotten frustrated with the seemingly sloppy product.  By that I mean, there are frequently errors in the printed patterns and instructions. When brought to her attention, she has been unwilling to fix them. She just tells you how to fix them or says it really doesn’t make a difference [in the finished garment]. I don’t think a $15 pattern should contain errors so consistently. Enough with the rant…sorry😳. Anyhow, she popped up with a new pattern for our men folk AND the pattern photo was a really cool cargo short…roomy side pocket detail to be specific.  I completely disregarded the technical drawing which showed a rather dorky plain flat patch pocket. I was pissed! At SP and myself for not looking closely before clicking the buy button.

So I set out to make my husband some new shorts with the details he wanted.  The pocket drafting was not complicated, but took some time.

I used waxed paper over the pockets and fingernail traced each detail. Then I trued up the lines and added seam allowance directly on the wax paper. I used my window as a light box and traced over each piece onto paper. The only challenge was creating the darted corners in the back pocket. I scratched my head for a bit until I realized, it was just a dart…easy peasy!


Here is my pattern review:

Pattern Description:  A basic cargo short with jeans styling front pocket and a yoke back. Side patch pockets with flaps.

Pattern Sizing:  Size 1 to 9 which equates to waist size 28″ to 44″

Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it?  Not the technical drawing, but the photo, yes. More about that on my blog.

Were the instructions easy to follow?  I didn’t use them.

What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern?  Simply that they were copied from RTW…the silhouette, not the cargo pocket.

Fabric Used:  100% cotton twill from FabricMart. I got it as a recent Sues pick for $2.99/yard! This is the real deal in twills.

Pattern alterations or any design changes you made:  I completely redrafted the side and back pockets.

Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others?
Now that I have the styling details my husband wants, it is a TNT.

Conclusion:  I am really glad I stuck with this pattern and didn’t let my pissyness get the best of me. They are a wonderful fit.
I compared the fit/styling with the KwikSew cargo shorts I have made a couple of times and really like the amount of ease in this pattern. They are slimmer without being tight. I’d say great for the men in our lives without much backside flesh 😉

Thanks for visiting!

image image image image image image imageUntil next time!

x G

Tickled Pink! I’ve made a T-Shirt Bra


After my last make, the fail posted about here, I told myself that I was done for a while with bra making. When I woke up the next morning, I set about to find my next up project and was sucked back into these addictive little creatures…BRAs! I’m telling you they are addictive. I had been cleaning up the bits and pieces trying to put them away as reusable pieces and found a bra I had started a couple of months ago. It is the DL01 by MakeBra. It is a cut and sew foam cup number that has been reviewed and blogged several times that shows to be well fitting and flattering all the same. All that was left to do was to apply the neckline and underarm elastics and hardware. So I finished her. It fit! That is the the culprit that put me in the bra-maker’s vortex! 🙃

My zigzag is too tight, makes for wavy seams 😩

Another bra I had going was the Elan bra, a padded-horizontal seamed lace cup with front closure. I finished her as well…I had only gotten one cup finished before putting it away so it took a bit of time to get it done. Fit not so good, it was too small. I was frustrated at the lack of instruction for selecting my size and even tried emailing the pattern maker, I believe is the maker. I probably won’t make this bra again due to the fact that you use fusible fleece for the padding and it’s just too many steps to create a bra. Sorry no pic, I trashed it too fast.

Now for the crime-de-la-crime! My beautiful T-Shirt Bra.


Isn’t she puurrty?!

Here is my review, it’s the same one I’ve posted at PatternReview.

Pattern Description:  from the website
Amanda and Alyssa Foam Cup Pattern , PB-1014
The first pattern of its kind in the world! Yes, you CAN make your own seamless cup t-shirt bras using our Angled Foam cups (MA series) or the Push-up Angled Foam cups (MP series). Two styles to choose from from in one envelope – either all fabric cups (Amanda) or lace cups (Alyssa). Both views have a fabric frame. Pattern is bilingual English and French.

We also sell a kit KM-33 with the fabrics pre-cut for the Amanda pattern. Please see the Kits & Bundles section of this website. To do the Alyssa, you would also need a piece of lace.
Pattern Sizing:
Complete size range from cup size 32 (32B) through to cup size 52 (42E) in one envelope.
Selecting your size is done a bit differently than her other patterns, but is well explained in the directions. As it turns out, I used a size 34 frame/cup and 30″ band.

Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it?

Were the instructions easy to follow?
This is subjective…if you have seen a few bras and have a solid understanding of how a bra is constructed, they are well written. I would not recommend you try it without the added support from Beverly’s Craftsy classes. I have all three of them, and I referred to all of them during making of this bra.

What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern?
I am so proud of how RTW it looks as well as the terrific fit.

Fabric Used:  I have a rather good supply of bra/lingerie fabrics and bits. However, since this is my first go at a pre-formed foam cup bra I bought the kit available at Sweetcups online. In hindsight…it was a rather pricey decision.
Duoplex for the frame and straps
Power net for the band
Pre-formed angled foam cups, MA (regular, not push-up)
Underwire from The Emerald Studio, France 36
Various elastics and hardware from the small findings kit at Sweetcups

Pattern alterations or any design changes you made:  I didn’t make any fit changes, but through my haste, I forgot to attaché the straps I made from the pattern and needed to make my own straight straps. They attach to the underarm elastic that is looped to hold a ring and was a technique in one of the classes.

Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others?
I will most definitely sew many more and I do recommend all who want to make their own bras to give this one a go!

I love the smooth silhouette of a foam cup and will vow to never by another overpriced bra again.

Okay…here are some more pictures, I’ve tried to use some discretion since posting my boobs on the web feels a little weird 😳. I even asked my husband if he was okay with it…after all it’s not much different than galavanting around the beach in a bikini! Amiright?

image image image image image image

Thanks for reading!  Until next time,

x G

Bra-Making: an exercise in patience


It’s been a while since I’ve posted, I’ve been exercising 😅. Making bras!

As you know, I’ve been on a quest to a well fitting bra. I’ve been a patron of the well known Victoria’s Secret for many years. Yes, I know that’s a taboo mention among many makers, but it’s the truth. They’ve fit me well enough or so I thought…until recently.

Back in February I attended a seminar presented by Monica O’Rourke of Bravo Bella on a well fitting bra. Here is a video snippet with an introduction to what she taught.  I learned how to conceptualize fit in terms of the physics of the breast and the engineering of support.  It’s the sort of science nerdy stuff that I really enjoy 🤓. With that information and her bra pattern, I believe I am very close to a next to perfect fit.

The apex is slightly off
The apex is slightly off

Now for some exercise and I don’t mean the kind that you sweat from physically strenuous activity.  This exercise does cause a bit of perspiration; an exercise in patience.

One of the tools I have been using are ALL of the Craftsy classes by Beverly Johnson, they are TOL in my opinion. I thought I’d get creative and try using this pattern to make a partial band bra. This is one of the techniques in her second class. However, brave set in and I decided to make a dropped bridge too. The instructions were easy to follow, having to redraft from my well-fitting bra…should have worked. This bra however was an epic F.A.I.L.!


I tried so hard on this one, using stretch satin with an overlay of mesh. I used shear bra cup lining to maintain fit. What I didn’t recall hearing was that in a partial band bra, the cup is made bigger by the width of the channeling. This shouldn’t create a huge bra, but for me it did. I was so dissapointed 😩. I learned one very important thing…I am not experienced enough to start redrafting bra patterns. First I must “do my time” and make several more bras of different styles in order to better understand bra design and fit. This was not only an exercise in patience, but an “Ah-Ha!” moment for me.

Until next time!




COMPLETED: Almada, Silk Robe



I am in love…

I subscribe to Seamwork Magazine and have since it’s inception.  If you don’t know, it’s an e-magazine (aka ezine) put out by Collete Patterns monthly.  As a subscriber, you get credits to use towards patterns published with the magazine.  A few months ago they featured lingerie and one of the patterns was Almada.  She is a very loose and airy robe, perfect for the up and coming Summer!  I have wanted to make this up, but was waiting for the perfect fabric pairing.

I think I’ve found it.  I have an out of control stash, and finding that it overwhelms me at times.  I bought this silk panel (5yards/panels) a couple of years ago on a huge sale.  I think I paid $5 per yard/panel.  I thought I would be using it for lining a jacket.  That of course never materialized…pun!  AlmadaFront (2)

As of late, my sewing has been flopping…not going well at all.  Of course, it is primarily with bra-making.  So I needed a success darn-it!!

Even with a slippery fiddly fabric like silk, I set out to make this a success and think I hit the mark.  I sort-of experimented with finishing techniques throughout because I just didn’t want to waist any time and wanted a completed garment.  I did however read through the instructions twice to make sure I was not going to miss any special notes.  The construction is very basic and will allow the beginner sewist to learn a technique or two, so is a good easy pattern for a newer sewist to grow in her techniques.

On with my robe.  A couple of considerations I needed to sort out before I began cutting, were how to handle the panels with regard to placement of the pattern pieces.  Silk is not friendly with handling so I wanted to make sure much of the seams appeared intentional as far as placement even if I couldn’t pattern match everywhere.

As it turned out, the back piece (original has a CB seam) could fit nicely over the whole medallion so I omitted the CB seam and centered the motif.  For the front pieces, I tried to place them so that the shoulder seam could match somewhat.  The border around the medallion matches quite nicely although the rest of it not so much.  The coloring of the print makes it not so noticeable so I am very happy with the finish.  When I layed it out flat to mark the tie placement, I noticed the the medallion on the front is an exact match to the back ….wooohooo!! I didn’t even think about that and was a very happy accident 🙂  For the hem, I chose to forgoe the baby hem and used the 3-thread rolled hem on my serger…she does very well with this stitch.  The only thing I am not super pleased with is the side/underarm and shoulder seam finishes.  These were the first seams I did and used a combo of finishes to decide what I wanted.  The first was straight stitch with 3-thread narrow overlock…my serger would not cooperate and it is quite messy (thus no pictures of the inside).  The second was the overcast stitch on my standard sewing machine which I trimmed close.  It is not bad, just not as professional as I like.

After I was done, I remembered a tutorial done by Gail Yellen (YouTube) where she demonstrated how to make a tidy narrow seam finish similar to a french seam with your serger.  Darn-it, I should have done this but it was too late at that point…next time, right?


I have never had a Summer robe, and certainly not one made of 100% silk, but now I do and feel my sewing mojo coming back :)!  This robe makes me feel so feminine and pretty.  I say, every woman needs a beautiful silk robe to remind her that she is beautiful and worthy of luxury.  Go forth and make yourself something luscious and pretty.  Thanks for reading 🙂

x G

p.s. I am sharing this post on Gray All Day: Sew it Chic June…go on over to see the other posts.  Helena brings together some of our community of bloggers who are showcasing their latest makes :).  Lets see if we can inspire or get inspired!



Bra Making…custom-fit!


As I said, although a bit later than promised, I’m back with some progress on my customized bra fit.

I thought I’d provide a proper review with my last post, I thought I’d include it here so that you can see the actual breakdown of adjustments.

Pattern Review: Bravo Bella Bra 2

Description: A full band, 4-piece cup seam designed for maximum support and a round shape, from website.

Sizing: Multi-sized master pattern includes sizes 32D-I, 34D-I, 36D-I, 38D-I, 40D-I, 42D-I, 44D-I, 46D-I, 48D-I.

I learned how to think about bra sizing while attending a seminar by Monica O’Rourke…my size in this pattern is a 32D. My RTW size is 34B. Who knew!!

Were the instructions easy to follow?

Yes and no…I used my own experience along with her DVD and the pattern instruction just to keep on track. I will add that I have taken Beverly Johnson’s Craftsy classes and have learned quite a bit. I highly recommend all of the :).


It actually feels like it truly fits. It does not give me weird, pointy or squished boobs. The support is amazing. I can jump up and down and don’t feel as if the girls are going to rip from my chest.  Another little nugget of goodness is that it doesn’t take any rings or sliders, so if you don’t want to source the little fiddly bits you don’t have to.  The strap attachment on the side cup is to short to allow for a nice match with the strap. But this is an easy fix with a little redrafting…which I love to do. 🤓

Fabric Used:  Nylon tricot and firm power net. All items were included in a kit purchased from Bravo Bella.  The underwires were also purchased from BB, they are Flexlite and are so much more comfortable than the very rigid punched steel that are widely available.

Pattern alterations or any design changes you made:

Bra #1, none.  I had a bit of boob-bulge on the left neckline, back fat and the band was way too tight.

Bra #2: 

Band: placed pattern with DOGS horizontal, added 1/2″ at 1″ from side seam. It should be noted that the pattern designer has you place the back band diagonally so that the DOGs provide much stronger support, however with small breasts it is not necessary.

Upper Cup: raised CF 1/4″

Side Cup/Strap Attachment: lowered 1 1/2″ and re-drafted the neckline and armhole curve blending to CF and SS.

I still felt like the band was too tight along the upper edge from the side seam around my back to where my shoulder-blade ends; back fat bulging. Just not attractive 😩.

Bra #3:

I kept the above and added another 1/2″ to the back band, it is still too snug for my taste. For comfort and movement I added elastic strap extenders.  The front strap attachment is re-drafted so that when the elastic is turned back and sewn to the strap it is the same width and looks prettier.😃

This one turned out the best so far.  I found that when I wore my bra for a day, the apex of the cup didn’t quite align with my breast apex (nipple). Everything that I’ve read says that they are to align, which is supposed to minimize show through when wearing closer fitting garments.  It’s funny how we can be happy with a make, but find imperfections with each.  My next bra will be tweaked slightly. I guess it’s considered fine tuning. And why not?

Notes for Bra #4:

Raise the depth of the band at the SS by 1/2″ and re-draft the armhole to cover more breast tissue in the upper cup. Still thinking about this one.

Re-draft the upper cup for a smooth finished edge without elastic.

Remove the strap extension from the upper cup and create a strap attachment point so that I can use a different type of decorative strap.

Create a partial band bra….once ALL fit changes are set in stone.

Try a lace application, all over or just the upper cup.  The sky is the limit!

Thanks for reading. What kind of bra making experience do you have? Few or many fitting adjustments? Do tell in the comments.




Bra Making Challenge 2016

My 1st underwire bra

Making my own bras has interested me for the past three years.  I’ve jumped on the Watson band wagon and really liked the two that I made.  It was a fairly easy bra to begin with and as such a confidence boost.  I’ve tried three others that were not the right shape for my girls…not that I have difficult to fit boobs or anything. LOL  I am used to those padded pre shaped VS bras and will never get used to pointy boobs, which is mostly what I ended up with.

I’ve been following Erin of EmeraldErin for some time now.  Her skill is beyond amazing and she is a terrific resource for bra making.  She does a challenge every year where she and anyone else can choose to make a bra each week, month, or as often as able. She takes submissions via email, Pinterest and Instagram and rounds up on the last Sunday of each month with a blog post.

I am a late joiner to this challenge…but hey better late than never, I amiright?


My committment is to make a wearable bra by the end May this year. To further my own challenge, I want to perfect the fit and duplicate my pattern onto card stock so that I can use it as a design block and make beautiful custom pretties that I will be proud to wear without spending a fortune in the process. So, no weekly bra makes for this gal!

I will be back tomorrow with a post about the bra that I’ve found…and made! So stayed tuned and in the meantime check out Erin’s blog if you haven’t already and don’t forget to tell me about your bra making, real or wis he’d for in the comments.



COMPLETED: Morgan Boyfriend Jeans!


Closet Case Files has done it AGAIN. I love my Ginger’s, but now am loving my boyfriend jeans a.k.a. Morgan Boyfriend Jeans.  I jumped on the denim kit this time around when Heather posted.  I hesitated for, like…30seconds.  Clicked away, then right back.  I ordered even though I really don’t need all the fixin’s as my stash is pretty stocked with zippers, rivets, buttons and thread.  The kits she puts together are just fun!

I couldn’t wait, though…until the rigid denim in my kit arrives.  I had some stretch denim that I decided to use knowing full well that they are meant for a non-stretch denim.  I only pre-washed my yardage one time realizing that they probably would shrink up a tad more.  I printed the PDF (yes, I bought that during the 30-seconds of kit purchase hesitation :blush:).  My first attempt at putting it together was a disaster!  My own hurried fault.  I scrapped it and reprinted, waited until after work this time.  It taped up without flaw.  Before choosing my size, I measured a pair of boyfriend jeans I just spent a large stack of bills on….Joe Jeans.  I love them and they are so comfy!  Here are a couple of pics I had saved for outfit inspiration.

Anyway, the Morgan’s finished measurements were almost exactly the same as my Joe’s.  I picked the size 12 since I wanted a relaxed fit although not baggy.  I cut out the size 12 across the board.

Since these are my first version, meant for deciding what adjustments might be needed, I had some fun with the stitching details. First off, I used a white cotton shirting for the pockets and the waistband casing.  The only pieced I interfaced were those suggested in the pattern, the fly facing and shield…oh and the area where the button and buttonhole are in the waistband.  I used pink serger thread for the seam allowance finishing…real men wear pink, right?  Boyfriend jeans need a little pink!! 😉


I have made a button fly before, but they didn’t really turn out that great…the instructions were a little confusing. The fly works, but the buttons were a little crooked…off center.  Heather does an amazing job walking you through creating this fly.  I am loving the button fly for a couple of reasons.  1) No worries about breaking a needle when attaching the waistband. Yay!  2) It is authentic for jeans, specifically boy jeans ;).  My fly turned out very well if I do say so myself.  One thing that I always do with the fly shield is to cut one of the edges along the selvage as I really like the appearance when it is finished.  You can see part of the selvage edge along the seam when the fly is unbuttoned which is a cool design detail.


This brings me to the design details.  Since I used pink on the inside, I thought I would be selective about where and how much pink I wanted on the outside.  The other top stitching is with a dark navy  thread along the seam edge with a smoky light blue 1/4″ away from the first line…the same on the back pockets.  Back to the pink. I wanted to use an unexpected touch by stitching an “X” on the left pocket facing just to see if I liked it…and I do!  Then I used pink as the top stitching down each hip seam just beyond the pocket lining marked with a smaller “X” to mimic the pocket facing.  The last place for pink is the waistband buttonhole.  For the coin pocket, I used the selvage along the top edge folding it forward then back to ensure the top edge wasn’t too thin.  I love all the details I did on these jeans and will likely use them on my next pair(s) ;).

As for the fit…pretty spot-on out of the shoot.  The pics above are after a full day of wearing in my car…on the road.  I am a home health nurse so I spend a lot of time sitting in my car; especially because I serve a primarily rural community. The denim I used stretches but I find that it didn’t overstretch.  They are still comfy without being baggy. Heather recommends going down a size or two (I think…) if using a stretch although she is very clear that this jean is NOT drafted for stretch fabric.  I went in knowing that it may not work well.  I am happy enough and will likely NOT make any changes for my first rigid pair.  That just sounds super uncomfortable, right? lolz

As a side note, I had been thinking about adding the traditional leather patch on the waistband of my future jeans makes, and then Heather added this detail on the Morgan Boyfriends.  It was fun to add and I think it makes them even more RTW looking.  My Brother machine has handled all sorts of fabrics no matter the thickness or fiber type, but ever since it went to get routinely serviced…it keeps skipping stitches even over thin areas. Ugh!  I have tried EVERYTHING.  What I ended up doing which was probably not good for her was to push down on the needle bar so the needle and hook were sure to meet.  Yikes!  Anyone have a solution?  I probably will need to take her back to the shop :(.

You might be wondering…What is that top?  Well stay tuned…I will blog about it shortly ;).

Tell me about your jeans dreams…have you made them?  What keeps you from stitching up your own jeans…custom style?

Until then,

Sew a button on your underware!